10/18/2008

Ben Coleman, Tonight on NBC's America's Toughest Jobs!

Not many people actually know that I've Known Ben Coleman for years. We met while I was in college and now we both work for Pioneer Basement Waterproofing in Westport, MA. Like his profile on ATJ's says, he was my go to guy. We enjoy the same music, we're both very political and articulate, and I can't say how excited I am for him in this Nation Wide Opertunity.

A few months ago he was cast to appear on a show called America's Toughest Jobs which is on NBC tonight at 8pm.

From what I understand tonight is either the last show or the next to last. Either way I wanted people to know that you can catch up on past episodes online, view his profile and if you're really into it, give him a shout tell him that you're a reader of mine who is routing for him.

So on behalf of everyone at Pioneer Basement, myself, my house-hold and my close group of friends: GOOD LUCK BEN!!!!!! WE HAVE FAITH!!!

Ben on Myspace: http://www.myspace.com/benisaruckus
Ben's "meet me" page on America's Toughest Jobs: http://www.nbc.com/Americas_Toughest_Jobs/contestants/ben.shtml

10/17/2008

Are Tenants Responsible for Mold Damage in Rhode Island Rentals?

This is another post dedicated to questions that have lead people to my blog and not finding anything that connected to their exact question about their home, construction, or basement project. In hopes that this information can be helpful to a person in Rhode Island dealing with a mold issue in their basement, I've posted this blog.

According to a renter’s hand book distributed by the University of Rhode Island:

http://www.uri.edu/commuter_housing/landlordtenant.pdf
Page 11:
“A tenant must comply with required State and local health and safety code standards. The rental unit and shared interior/exterior areas must be kept clean and safe from hazards. The garbage, rubbish, and other wastes must removed from the unit (as necessary) and disposed of in a proper manner. The plumbing fixtures and facilities must be kept in a clean and satisfactory condition. All electrical, plumbing, sanitary, heating, and other facilities and appliances on the premises must be used in a reasonable manner. There must be no deliberate or negligent destruction, defacing, impairment or removal of anything that is attached to or otherwise part of the premises. Also, the tenant is responsible for the conduct of family members and visitors in regard to the afore- mentioned situations.

The tenant should: avoid causing noisy or unruly disturbances which may bother other people; bring regular maintenance and major repair situations to the landlord's attention on a "as needed" basis; and notify the landlord promptly of any conditions that may cause deterioration of the premises.”

This can be translated as: If the tenant caused the mold growth via a spill or neglect to bring it to the attention of the landlord, then they can be held accountable.

If it is something that is caused by the neglect of the landlord then it is the landlord’s responsibility.

“Landlords must comply with state building code (RIGL 23-27.3) requirements concerning all new construction, additions, or repairs that are done or are needed. It is also extremely important that rental units be kept in a continually fit and habitable condition. When a unit is initially rented and during any period of occupancy, state law requires that a unit meet the housing standards of the Rhode Island Housing Maintenance and Occupancy Code (RIGL 45-24.3) (or http://www.library.state.ri.us/publications/hrc/2007Revision%20of%20L_T_Handbook2.pdf ), as well as local related ordinances. If a unit is sub-standard and repairs are not made in a prompt and satisfactory manner, there are certain options available to the tenant under the Residential Landlord and Tenant Act as well as under the aforementioned housing code laws…

Generally, minor repairs of a structural nature are the responsibility of the landlord (if needed as a result of normal wear and tear) as well as all major repairs. As will be mentioned elsewhere, certain minor repairs, as well as cleanliness, and repairs needed as a result of the tenant's (or guest's) negligence or purposeful destruction are usually the tenant's responsibility. There can be a written agreement made between a landlord and a tenant, which allows the tenant to do specified repairs, maintenance, alterations, and remodeling. But such an agreement must be made in good faith, in writing, signed by both parties, and supported by adequate compensation. The agreement cannot be made so the landlord can avoid his or her responsibility under applicable building and housing codes, nor does it in any way diminish or affect the landlord's obligation to other tenants on the premises.”

Not having a law background I can’t weigh in on a “verdict” for whose responsibility it is. However, the one thing that should be weighed in on is a landlord not acting. If there is a foundation issue, a moldy basement, or a basement leak that isn’t fixed or addressed then yes, I agree that the landlord should be held responsible.

So it’s in your best interest as a tenant to educate yourself on the types of mold that are found in basements, effects, causes and if you suspect you have a moisture problem, then to contact a professional basement waterproofing company to help you iron out suggestions for proper mitigation with your landlord.

Further reading:

Indoor Mold Legislation Proceeds Cautiously at the State, Federal Level – Latham & Watkins, LLP

http://injury-law.freeadvice.com/injury-law/home_mold_in_new_purchase.htm

http://www.epa.gov/iaq/molds/moldresources.html

http://www1.umn.edu/eoh/hazards/hazardssite/indoormolds/moldmonitoring.html
(this is a particularly partial listing and explanation of mold types and other resources)

Basement Waterproofing, Moisture Control, Dehumidifers and Basement Finishing

10/16/2008

Where should a Sump Pump fall on my list of Priorities?

Where should a Sump Pump fall on my list of Priorities?

It’s a very common question, especially if you’ve already talked yourself out of believing you have a water problem in your basement.

If you have flooded, seen water, or experienced water of any kind in your basement, EVEN once a year (or once in a blue moon as you might put it), then a sump pump is a good starting point to help protect you from future flooding.

Sump pumps matched into the GrateSump are designed to help control the overall level of water, moisture and water vapor under your basement slab. Staying at 19” deep, the GrateSump is designed to house the pump, protect it and also discourage the moisture under the basement floor to coax any soil out from underneath the foundation footing which supports the house (in professional terms: Foundation Undermining).

Sump pumps that run less require less service, which in turn means that the pump will be more ready for your “once in a while” water that finds its way into your basement.

Once a sump pump is installed we can determine how often it runs, if there are any other problem areas in the basement that occur or reoccur and address those accordingly. Pioneer Basement’s uses the GrateSump because of its ease of extension. We can add onto the system whenever extra protection is needed in the future. More drain? Extra Pump? Wall Protection? Any one of these can be added to the existing sump, which would in turn become the heart of the water removal process.

A sump pump matched with the GrateSump is a great first step home improvement choice for those who want to address their basement and foundations properly.

10/13/2008

NJ.com Article : Correct Basement Answer, not found.

Another article with slightly poor advice.
http://www.nj.com/homegarden/homeimprovement/index.ssf/2008/10/q_we_are_planning_on.html

Q. I have a basement with standard masonry walls. There's a little "bump out" workshop that was put in sometime after the original house was completed. The owner cut through the original foundation to create a door and built an underground workshop there. An enclosed sun porch rests atop the workshop. The workshop is the dampest part of the basement. We keep finding puddles in one corner, sometimes up to a half-inch deep. This happens every few weeks, regardless of the weather. We have to take out the shop vac and vacuum it up.

That dries things out for a little while, but, inevitably, the water returns, and a portable dehumidifier doesn't seem to help. There are no visible cracks or condensation on the walls, and the water appears to either be bubbling up through the floor or through microscopic cracks at the base of the wall. (The floor is covered in 50-year-old asphalt tile and mastic, so we can't see whether there are any obvious cracks on the slab below.)

The rest of the basement is bone dry, including the other side of the workshop. We spoke with a few different basement waterproofing companies, all of whom told us that the only solution was to put in a sump pump. But that seems like overkill if the problem is only in one corner of this little part of the basement. What would you recommend? Short of digging out the foundation and resealing it from the outside, or repouring the floor, we're flummoxed!

-- Union

A. If the puddles appear during any season and you don't see any wetness on the walls indicating condensation, it is likely that the water is coming through the walls. If it were coming through cracks in the floor, you would likely see white efflorescence in the joints between the old asphalt tiles. Check the grade around the entire foundation, as water can travel considerable distances before it finds a weak point. Make sure that the grade flows away from the foundation and correct any low or flat areas.

It is also possible that, when the "bump out" was built, a dirt ball fell on the footings before the walls were erected and, over time, water pooling at the base of the foundation has found its way inside at that point; I have seen this before, where the top of the footing was not thoroughly cleaned before the wall forms were set up or the concrete blocks were laid. If the walls are made of poured concrete, you may want to try to waterproof them with one of the coatings available in hardware and building supply stores. However, if the walls are concrete or cinder blocks, do not waterproof them from inside, as their cores may fill with water and cause worse problems. If the condition is so small, as you say, you may just have to live with it.



I'll say this again in responce to this statement:
"If the walls are made of poured concrete, you may want to try to waterproof them with one of the coatings available in hardware and building supply stores"

Coatings don't work for long periods of time. They should only be used as a temperary solution if used at all.

The man, Henri de Marne is a little rough with the person asking for help. No one has to "live with" a wet basement. In fact no one SHOULD live with it because over long term not only is it damaging to your house but damaging to your health.

This is clearly a problem that's caused by both the land grade and something that's wrong with the footing/wall cold joint. I'm guessing there's not exterior drain system to speak of and it sounds like the area actually needs a bit of work.

Dinggy looking wood furtinure can be fixed with coatings and paints, not foundation walls.

10/10/2008

Basement Waterproofing News

BostonWaterproofingBoston.com
post on foundation repair and basement waterproofing in boston, why it's important and what you can do after your prepare your basement the right way.